Having been asked for information on Byzantine textiles many times, I have gathered a quick list of resources particular to Byzantine fabrics. There are basically three categories of information here - textile production, textile examples (shape of decoration, etc.), and laws concerning the use/production/sale of textiles in period. Please note that there are also many Coptic examples, as well as Sassanid. These pertain to my particular interest in "Early" Byzantine clothing and textiles. - Linda M. Blowney
Bank, Alice (transl. - Sorokina, Inna); Byzantine Art in the Collections of Soviet Museums; Aurora Art Publishers; Leningrad; 1977.
A coffee table style book, but it has excellent photos of extant fabrics, especially notable are the color photos - you have to see them to believe them. Also fine examples of pearling technique (lots of little pearls, all over the place). This would be a good place for someone who wants to get some idea of how to make appropriate fabric pattern choices at the local sewing store.
Bunt, Cyril G.E.; Byzantine Fabrics; F. Lewis, Publishers, LTD; Leigh-on-Sea; 1967.
Not much text, but great examples of actual fabrics from Byzantium. There is one fabric that has little flowers all over it - looks like something right out of the 1960's. Again, good for developing a discerning fabric aesthetic, not so great if you are interested in textile production, weaves, dyes, etc.
Cavallo, Guglielmo, ed.; The Byzantines; University of Chicago Press; Chicago; 1997.
This is a book of essays on various strata of Byzantine culture. The chapter on women has information on the role of women in textile production and the importance of spinning and weaving to the woman in every household, including the Empress herself.
Evans, Helen C. and Wixom, William D., eds.; The Glory of Byzantium; Metropolitan Museum of Art/Harry N. Abrams, Inc.; New York; 1997.
The catalog from the exhibition at the Met. Again, examples of extant textiles but not much information on production.
Geanakoplos, Deno John; Byzantium: Church, Society and Civilization Seen Through Contemporary Eyes; University of Chicago Press; Chicago; 1984.
This is a book of selected texts from the period. It is useful for the laws concerning who is allowed to wear which textiles and in which colors - basically sumptuary laws.
Maguire, Henry; "Garments Pleasing to God: The Significance of Domestic Textile Designs in the Early Byzantine Period"'; Dumbarton Oaks Papers No. 44; Dumbarton Oaks Publication Office; 1990; pp. 215-224.
This article discusses the use of textiles in areas other than just clothing (bedding, draperies, etc.). Also in this volume is an invaluable article on clothing from the Middle Byzantine period, as well as one which discusses the "magickal" properties of jewelry and textile decoration.
Muthesius, Dr. Anna Maria; "Silk, Power and Diplomacy in Byzantium"' Textiles Society of America Proceedings; 1992; pp. 99-110.
An article which discusses the silk trade in Byzantium. Especially useful for information on who wore silks, how silk was used in diplomacy and therefore how it travelled to the West, etc.
Pierce, Hayford and Tyler, Royall; Three Works of Byzantine Art: "Elephant Tamer Silk, VIIth Century"; Harvard University Press; Cambridge, MA; 1941.
A short pamphlet which has examples of lion-tamer iconography fabric remnants. Not much information on how the fabrics were produced, but pictures of actual textiles.
Rutschowscaya, Marie-Helene; Coptic Fabrics; Editions Adam Biro; Paris; 1990.
This book has a lot of very useful information, especially on decoration of fabrics and techniques of production. Also very useful for costume information, as it has photos of pieces you won't find anywhere else.
Sebesta, Judith and Bonfante, Larissa - editors; The World of Roman Costume; University of Wisconsin Press; Madison, WI; 1994.
The book also touches on late Roman/early Byzantine. It has an excellent chapter on fabrics and dyes in the period - a very clear explanation of colors, textures, weaves, and fabrics available in the period.